Best Rated Storm Doors: What They Protect, and What They Do Not
- totalhurricanefl
- Jul 28
- 11 min read
Updated: Jul 28

The best rated storm doors come down to a short list of brands that show up again and again in independent testing: Andersen, EMCO, Larson, and Pella. Within those brands, the higher tier lines are the ones worth buying. But here is the part most guides skip. A storm door protects your entry door from rain, sun, and everyday wear. It does not protect your home during a hurricane, and in Palm Beach County that difference decides whether you spend your money once or twice.
Nine times out of ten, when a homeowner here asks me for the best rated storm doors, they are really asking two questions at once. Which door will last, and which door will protect my home when a storm comes up the coast. Those are not the same question, and mixing them up is the most expensive mistake I watch people make. This guide answers both.
First, Which Kind of Storm Door Do You Mean?
Down here that question is not pedantic, it is the whole ballgame. Nationally, a storm door means the secondary door that mounts in front of your entry door. In South Florida, plenty of homeowners say storm doors, storm windows, or hurricane windows and mean impact rated hurricane protection. It is the same habit that turns accordion shutters, roll downs, hurricane fabric, and Bahama shutters into "storm shutters" in everyday conversation.
That mix up is why I ask every caller the same thing before I quote anything. If you want ventilation, natural light, and a weather buffer in front of a nice front door, keep reading, because the brand comparison below is exactly what you need. If what you actually want is an entry that holds up to a hurricane, skip ahead to the impact door section, because a traditional storm door will not do that job at any price.
Best Rated Storm Doors at a Glance
Brand and line | Best for | Frame | Screen | Install | Price tier |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Andersen 3000 and 4000 Series, also sold as the 8 and 10 Series | Easiest installation and long term parts support | Aluminum | Retractable on many models | Easiest of the group | Premium |
Larson high view and full view lines | Maximum glass and the widest selection at big box stores | Aluminum | Interchangeable or retractable | Heavier, needs careful fastening | Mid to premium |
EMCO by Andersen | Solid performance a step below the top Andersen tier | Aluminum | Varies by model | Moderate | Mid |
Pella Rolscreen | Smooth retractable screen operation | Aluminum | Retractable | Moderate | Mid to premium |
All four appear in Consumer Reports' tested storm door lineup. Notice that every one of them is aluminum framed. That is not an accident, and it matters more here than it does in most of the country.
What Makes a Storm Door "Best Rated"
Independent testing tends to score four things, and they are the same four things you will notice living with the door:
Seal. How well it blocks drafts and wind driven rain.
Everyday operation. Whether the screen, latch, and closer work smoothly after a year, not just on day one.
Ease of installation. Predrilled holes, complete hardware, adjustable thresholds, and flexible hinge placement.
Build quality. Rust resistant frames, reinforced corners, and tempered glass.
Nothing on that list is about hurricanes. Keep that in mind as you shop.
Best Rated Storm Door Brands, Compared
Andersen 3000 and 4000
These are the doors installers reach for. Contractors describe the high end Andersen lines as close to tool free: out of the box, screw it to the opening, no drilling for the handle, no separate hinge rail to mount. An experienced installer can hang one in under an hour. The consistent complaint is that the handle set can seat oddly and often needs to be pulled apart and realigned. These are expensive doors, and most pros think they are worth it. Andersen has also been renaming these lines, so you may see the same doors sold as the 8 and 10 Series, and you can compare Andersen's storm door lines before you buy.
Larson
Larson gives you the most options and the most glass, including full view and maximum view models sold through Home Depot and Lowe's. The company lists its 60 MT Maximum View starting around $573, which tells you where the good tier begins. Two things to know. The high end Larson doors are heavy, and installers commonly add trim head screws through the brickmould on the hinge side so the door does not sag or pull away from the jamb over time. And owners do report closer and door stopper failures on otherwise nice doors, which is a cheap part to replace but an annoying one to replace repeatedly.
EMCO and Pella
EMCO is an Andersen subsidiary and lands in the middle of the range. Pella's storm door lineup includes the Rolscreen models, known for retractable screen operation that stays smooth. Both are legitimate picks if the specific model fits your opening and your budget.
Why the Tier Matters More Than the Brand
Here is the single most useful thing I can tell you about brand shopping. Every one of these companies sells a cheap door and a good door. The handyman consensus is blunt about it: spend a little and you get a disappointing door, spend more and you get a great one, from the same brand either way. Budget for the tier, not just the logo.
Two costs catch people off guard. Handle sets are frequently sold separately on both Andersen and Larson, so the shelf price is not the finished price. And if you plan to keep the door for a decade, write down the model and serial number the day it goes in, because that is what the Andersen and EMCO storm door parts store needs to sell you the right closer, sweep, or screen years later.
Storm Door or Impact Door: What Palm Beach County Homeowners Need to Know
When a customer tells me their new storm door "should help with the storms," I have to be straight with them. In Palm Beach County, that is not how it works.
This county sits inside Florida's Wind-Borne Debris Region under the Florida Building Code, which means opening protection is required on new construction and major replacements. Anything that genuinely protects your home during a storm has to be tested for missile impact and cyclic wind pressure, carry a Design Pressure rating, and hold either a Florida Product Approval number or a Miami-Dade Notice of Acceptance. The strictest tier, the High Velocity Hurricane Zone, applies to Miami-Dade and Broward. Palm Beach County sits one step below it, which gives you a wider range of approved products to choose from. A standard aluminum, fiberglass, or vinyl storm door off the shelf carries none of that certification, and under Florida law on marketing hurricane protection, a product cannot be sold as hurricane or impact protection unless it is approved for it.
The practical version:

If your entry does need real protection, the options that qualify are impact rated doors, accordion or rolldown shutters, and hurricane fabric, all of which are tested and approved for the job a storm door was never built to do.
That last row is worth reading twice. Wind mitigation credits on Florida homeowners insurance come from impact rated openings and code approved protection. A storm door, no matter how well it is rated by a testing lab, does not earn them. If lowering your insurance exposure is the goal, you are shopping for the wrong product, and it is better to find that out now.
What an Impact Rated Door Actually Does
An impact rated door is built for the job people think a storm door does. It is engineered and code approved to protect the opening from hurricane force wind, flying debris, and severe weather. The upsides most homeowners do not expect are the everyday ones. The same laminated glass and reinforced frame that stops a windborne projectile also makes the door far harder to break through, cuts outside noise noticeably, and improves energy efficiency because the assembly seals better and controls heat gain. You get storm protection you use once a season and security, quiet, and efficiency you get every day.
Who Makes Them, and Why Local Sourcing Matters
We work with several trusted suppliers, and we often source through companies like America's Best and Assura in Pompano Beach. They either build in house locally or have access to multiple manufacturers, which usually means a much faster turnaround than waiting on one of the large national brands. If you specifically want PGT or another well known national name, we can provide that too. It is worth asking about lead time before you commit, because in this market timing is often the real difference between two quotes that look the same on paper.
What Size Storm Door Do You Need
Measure the opening, not the old door. Measure the frame in three spots, top, middle, and bottom, and go with the smallest number. Most storm doors have only about a 3/16 inch tolerance on width, so an eighth of an inch of drift is enough to cause a problem. Larson's measuring guide walks through it if you want the manufacturer's version.
Common Storm Door Sizes

The most common storm door size is 36 × 80 inches, which is typically available as a stock option and is commonly used for front entries. 32 × 80-inch doors are also generally stocked and are often used for side and secondary entries. For older homes, 36 × 78-inch doors have limited availability, while 30-inch and 34-inch widths usually require a special order. Taller openings may use a 36 × 84-inch door, although availability is limited. For particularly tall openings, 36 × 96-inch or 8-foot storm doors are typically custom.
If you land on 36x80 with a screen, you are in the widest part of the market and you will have real choice. Anything outside that range, plan on lead time.
The Mistake I See Most Often on Sunny Entries
A dark, full glass storm door on a south or west facing entry turns the narrow gap between the two doors into an oven. Installer and manufacturer warnings put the temperature back there well past 180 degrees on a hot afternoon, and that trapped heat can warp your primary door, blister the finish, or peel it. Some entry door manufacturers will void the warranty over heat damage.

This is the tip nobody gives Florida buyers, and it is the reason a popular choice like a black 36x80 storm door needs a second look before you buy it. In our climate I steer sunny entries toward a ventilating model, a retractable screen, Low-E glass, or a lighter finish. Anything that gives the heat somewhere to go.
If your entry faces north or sits under deep shade or a covered porch, this is much less of a concern and you can choose the finish you actually want.
Choosing the Right Material and Style for Coastal Air

Aluminum is the default for a reason. It does not rot, it holds a finish well, and the top rated models are built on it. Look for rust resistant hardware and stainless fasteners, because on the barrier island and anywhere close to the Intracoastal, salt air finds the cheap components first. Fiberglass storm doors and vinyl storm doors exist and can be fine on a shaded, protected entry, but they are more common at the budget end, which puts you back in the tier problem above.
Match the door to what you actually want from it:
Airflow and a clear view of a nice front door. Full view or retractable screen. Some models seal blinds between the glass, which keeps them clean and out of the salt air.
A contemporary look. Aluminum frames in modern black or bronze finishes pair well with a bold front door, with the sun exposure caveat above.
A quieter, simpler door. A ventilating model with a fixed screen panel has fewer moving parts to fail.
What Storm Doors Cost, and Whether to Install It Yourself
A door worth owning generally starts in the mid hundreds and climbs from there depending on glass, screen type, and hardware, and remember the handle set may be a separate line item. Consumer Reports puts professional installation nationally in the range of $200 to $400 depending on region, with a DIY install taking a homeowner four to five hours and an experienced installer under an hour.
The case for hiring it out here is fit. An out of square opening, a heavy full view door, or an entry that needs the hinge side reinforced is where a self installed door starts to sag, bind, or leak air within a season.
If you are in West Palm Beach, Lake Worth, or anywhere in Palm Beach County, the question worth answering before you buy is whether a storm door is the upgrade you actually need, or whether your entry needs code approved protection instead. That is where we come in. We install code approved impact windows and doors built to handle hurricanes, flying debris, and severe weather, with the everyday benefits of added security, better energy efficiency, and less outside noise. When replacing the door is not the right call, we can cover the opening with hurricane fabric instead, which is often the more affordable route on a custom front door that would be expensive to replace. Because we source through local suppliers as well as the national brands, we can usually move faster than a big box special order. Ask for a free estimate and we will tell you straight which openings on your home are actually protected and which ones are not.
Frequently Asked Questions
Which storm door brand is best rated?
Andersen, EMCO, Larson, and Pella are the brands that consistently appear in independent testing. Among installers, the high end Andersen 3000 and 4000 lines have the strongest reputation, mostly for how cleanly they install and how easy parts are to get later.
Do storm doors help during a hurricane?
No. Storm doors are built to seal against rain and light wind. Hurricane protection in Palm Beach County requires an impact rated door or code approved shutters tested to the Florida Building Code, with a Design Pressure rating and a Florida Product Approval number or a Miami-Dade Notice of Acceptance.
What is the most common storm door size?
36x80. A 36x80 storm door with a screen fits the majority of front entries in this area. 32 inch widths are the next most common. Always measure your opening in three places and use the smallest measurement.
Is a black storm door a bad idea in Florida sun?
On a south or west facing entry with full glass, it is a real risk. Trapped heat between the two doors can damage your primary door and may void its warranty. On a shaded or north facing entry, a black storm door is fine. If you want black on a sunny entry, choose a ventilating model, a retractable screen, or Low-E glass.
Are fiberglass or vinyl storm doors better than aluminum here?
Usually not. The top rated models are aluminum framed, and aluminum handles our humidity and sun well when the hardware is rust resistant. Fiberglass and vinyl tend to sit at the budget end of the market, which is where quality problems show up.
Should I buy an entry door and storm door combo instead?
A combination unit can simplify the purchase, but it also locks you into one manufacturer's version of both products. In this climate I would rather see homeowners choose the entry door on its own merits, ideally impact rated, and add the storm door separately if they want ventilation and light.
Are storm doors and impact doors the same thing?
No, though the words get used interchangeably here. A storm door is a secondary door for weather, light, and ventilation. An impact door is a code approved primary door tested to survive hurricane force wind and flying debris. If someone quotes you a "storm door" for hurricane protection, ask for the Florida Product Approval number or Miami-Dade Notice of Acceptance.
How long does it take to get impact doors installed?
It depends heavily on where the product comes from. Sourcing through local suppliers who build in house is usually much faster than ordering from a large national manufacturer. Ask for the lead time in writing before you sign, because that gap can be the difference between being protected this season and next.
Can I install a storm door myself?
Yes, if your opening is square and you are comfortable with precise measuring and shimming. Expect four to five hours. Heavier full view doors benefit from extra fastening on the hinge side so they do not sag, which is the most common failure I see on self installed doors.
The Bottom Line for South Florida Homeowners
Start by settling which product you actually meant. If it is a true storm door, buy it for what it does. Comfort, light, ventilation, and a sharper looking entry. Buy the better tier within whichever brand you choose, respect your sun exposure when you pick the color and glass, and measure the opening rather than the door that is already there.
Then handle hurricane protection as its own decision, with impact rated doors or code approved shutters. If you are getting your home ready for hurricane season, make that call early rather than in June. Get those two jobs straight and you will spend your money exactly once.

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